If you had asked me a year ago would I ever write an article called "how to install a drop ceiling" I would have looked at you like you had three heads. Yet, here I am. Or rather, here we are.
I taught myself how to install a drop ceiling and here's the result. It makes me tear up with joy each time I go down to my basement. I'm writing this article to show you how to do yours.
I'm guessing you are here for the same reason that I was Googling for days on end a year ago. You want to know if you can install a drop ceiling in your basement on your own.
The short answer is yes! Yes you can and it's not that hard. You can save a lot of money by doing it yourself IF you don't make some of these key mistakes.
If you're here because you're still trying to decide should you go with a drop ceiling over a drywall ceiling for your basement then make sure to read both sides of the debate here on the site. Here's Jason's article that is definitely against drop ceilings. And here's my argument FOR choosing a suspended ceiling (let's show a little respect).
Now let's get to the meat and potatoes of how to install a drop ceiling.
Drop Ceiling Installation Tools and Materials
L-Channel: Metal channel thats shapped like an L. You will install this first around the entire perimeter of the wall, a few inches below your ceiling (hence the "drop" in drop ceiling).
T-Channel: Metal channel thats shapped like a... yep you guessed it, T! These run perpendicular to your floor joists.
4 foot cross T's: These are like mini T-Channel that run parallel to your floor joists and snap to the main T-Channel
2 foot cross T's: If you are purchasing 4'x2' tiles, these are not needed. If you are going with 2'x2' tiles, these are needed and run between the 4 foot cross T's.
Drop Ceiling Tiles: These will be the most expensive part of your drop ceiling project. They come in a ton of styles and can be humidity and mold resistant and offer various levels of sound insulation.
Drop ceiling tiles come in flush mounts (the tiles are even with the T's) or with reveals (tiles sit slightly below T's). Personally I think the reveals provide a nice aesthetic touch.
Wire and Wire Hanging Eyelets: The eyelets are screwed to the floor joists and the wire is looped through the eyelet and the wholes in the main T-Channels to provide the needed support from the weight of the tiles.
Tin Snips: You'll need a good pair of tin snips to make all the cuts on the L and T channels. I recommend this Bostitch model on Amazon. It's rated 4.5 stars and has free shipping with Prime.
Drill Eyelet Adapter: A special drill bit that the eyelets fit into. Worth its little weight in gold!
Several fresh Utility Knife Blades: Do yourself a favor and stock up on utility blades before getting started. I can't stress how important sharp blades are while cutting tiles. Cutting drop ceiling tiles dulls them quickly and if you attempt to cut tiles with dull blades, your cuts will look sloppy.
How to Install a Drop Ceiling
I found a great video that explains how to install a drop ceiling. I've embedded it at the bottom of this article after these steps, but I recommend reading these steps first. I pretty much learned 90% of what I needed to know from this guys so props to him!
I want to highlight here the key steps with some pain saving pointers. Save yourself some major aggravation and avoid my mistakes. Read through these, then watch the video, then leave a comment with any questions on how to install a drop ceiling.
Step 1 - Design Your Drop Ceiling Grid
It starts with a game plan. Literally, measure and make a TO SCALE drawing of each room. Then layout your tile spacing and see how it looks. Like tiling a floor, you want to make sure your outer edge ceiling tiles aren't too small. Ideally they will be evenly placed along the perimeter.
There are several websites and videos online on how to lay out a room. I was super annoyed though that every video on the web assumes you have a simple square shaped room. If you do, you've got a huge advantage in figuring out how to install a drop ceiling. Both of my main rooms had cut ins, jut outs, and soffits. If that's the same for you, use the videos as a starting point, lay out your room and make tweaks one direction or the other to avoid small tiles near those obstructions.
Step 2 - Install the L-Channel
Now, time to get your hands dirty. Determine the drop you are going with and measure around the perimeter of the room down from the floor joists that amount. Mark the location of your wall studs and using self taping drywall screws, adhere the L-Channel to the wall.
Interior corners are simple - Either overlap the two pieces or butt them together. Exterior corners can similarly be butted together but to give them a sharper look, I overlapped them and cut one on a 45 degree angle to give the appearance of a mitered corner.
Step 3 - Install the T-Channel
The main T runs perpendicular to the floor joists. Place your first main piece of T-Channel spaced away from your wall as determined in your grid layout.
These pieces of channel will be supported on either end by the L channel and will be supported in the middle by the eyelets and wire spaced approximately 2-4 feet apart. This amounts to about every other or every third joist.
Once you have the wire loosely run through the channel and the eyelets, next work to ensure the channel is level. One good strategy is to run a string taut from wall to wall in line with the L-Channel. Then pull the individual wires tight to bring the T-Channel in line with the string. Wrap the wire around itself to ensure it doesn't sag or come loose with the weight of the tile. Rinse and repeat this process with the T-Channel spaced 4 feet apart until all the channel is up.
Step 4 - Install the Cross Ts
Cross T installation is a snap. Sorry, bad pun. You need to snap in the 4 foot cross T's. Again if using 2x2 tiles, the 2 foot cross T's as well. It's easiest to do both at once for a smoother install. Start with full T's and once complete move to the edges. Measure and cut each T to size. Always cut a bevel on the wall end to avoid interference with the wall.
As you are going, drop in a couple full tiles to square up the grid. Definitely do this before cutting the edge tiles to ensure the grid is totally square.
Here is one of my drop ceiling tiles with a recessed light cut-out. This is before I installed the light trim.
After all the T's are installed, drop in all of the full tiles and move on to the edge pieces. Measure and cut these as well.
If you bought tiles with a reveal, the best way to get an accurate cut is to first cut the tile to size and set it into place. Then score the tile along the edge, remove the tile and cut the reveal. This can fairly accurately be done by hand and by eyeballing the depth of the cut. After 1 or 2 cuts, you'll get used to it.
Make special cuts for other interferences (drop lighting, smoke detectors, etc).
Here's the best video I found online showing how to install a drop-ceiling:
There you go, Done! A successful drop ceiling install. Congrats!
Do you have questions about how to install a drop ceiling? I'd love to hear them below!
-Adam
More Links on Basement Ceilings:
- Should you go with a drop ceiling? Jason says NO!
- Should you go with a drop ceiling? Adam says YES
- Why You Should NOT install your own drywall
Thanks for the article Adam. My wife and I are looking for our first home and the biggest thing I want to do is finish the basement myself. I would rather have a dry wall ceiling with small access panels for plumbing shut offs and what not. However, after reading your arguments and your "how to" I'm starting to consider a drop ceiling. Especially for the sound proofing because I'm going big with the 7.1 surround sound. Thanks for giving me something to think about.
As a side note: I will definitely do a drop ceiling if the home we buy has plumbing and electrical running beneath the floor joists. I don't consider the extra work and money would be worth it to do drywall. What do you think?
can I install a drop ceiling in the basement where the walls are not finished? There is no dry wall, just the painted foundation wall. Thanks.
I would like the answer to that question too
Of course you can as long as you have studs to which you can tie the angle iron (L channel). The thing is, should you later decide to install drywall, you would probably want to install it inside that same corner. Here is a nice option though...suspend the grid without going all the way to the walls. It would appear to float. Once hung, and tiles inserted, it will be pretty stiff and it makes for a nice effect, creating some dimension. Also, there are sites that manufacture designer tile so that drop ceiling does not look so "standard".
Wrong! I do it for a living and yes you can put directly to the foundation using hammer drill and tapcon screws! Just knock down any hunks of concrete that will keep wall track bumped out
yes you can rotohammer the wall angle to concrete using blue concrete screws.
No you cannot
why cant I install it right onto the foundation walls using the proper anchor screws
Sure you can, using tapcons or expanding nails with predrilled holes
you gotta live the YOLO life brah
I am installing a drop ceiling in my bsmt. to install my next run on the grids it falls directly under my heating trunk line so I cannot install the wire to support the grid, I cannot go the 2' or the 4', how do I support the grid
You do what is called a bridge put a wire on each side of the unit thats in the way if it's to a very long span you can use a piece of the main tee hang it from those 2 wires and now you can place the hanger wire in the proper place on that piece going to the ceiling
Approximately how long would it takes to put in a dropped ceiling in 3 rooms of about 600 sq ft
Assuming you have all of the materials but no experience installing drop-ceilings. I would guess about a week. If you've done it before, or can find just 1 person who has, I'd say you could knock it out in 2-3 days. - Jason
Someone that knows what they're doing it'd be only like half a day just for the grid or full day for the grid and tile
With experience you can do about 100 sf per hr
1 to tree years
Can't find this answer anywhere. On a long wall (35 ft.), do you overlap L bracket or butt the pieces together? If overlap, how much?
The strength of the wall angle pieces comes from screwing the L bracket to the wall. If your spacing is at the stud and it's no more than 16", then it won't make a difference. If you are at wider spacing, or just want to have less gap, but them together on the upright part of the L bracket and cut 1 45 (or just a little square tab) to over lap on the horizontal piece.
Don't overlap it just make sure you put a factory edge to factory edge and but them together
I have a room which changes direction by 45-60 degrees. The floor joists also change directions. Do I run a main tee across the room where the angle changes and bend the ends of the connecting main tees to fit the 45 degree main tee?
Consider what the overall view will look like. The position and flow of joist is not particularly important, although you have to find places to screw in your eyelets that will line up with the main T track. It may be nicer to just have your T and flow to run in one direction, but if the room has a significant space on both sides of the change in direction, then consider following the contour. Take a picture of your ceiling and then use a photo editing tool to overlay each design to see what looks best.
Great article
I have 44 inches left from the last main to the wall on both sides of the room. So I the side rule will match around the room. Would it be more sturdy to put another main 2 foot away from the last main leaving 20 inches. Or just use 4 foot tees cutting off the end to make the 44 inches. Which is more sturdy and which is faster.
Thanks
I am having a similar dilemma and wonder what you ended up doing here. My assumption is to use the 4-foot T method, but seems like a lot of weight to be sitting on the L
Can you install a drop ceiling if your walls are brick instead of drywall?
Hi Kevin - Yes, any type of wall material is ok, including drywall. - Jason
Have drop ceiling in basement but am having a hard time cutting a hole for box and getting back in place. It broke the first try. It's very tight in the area. What's the secret ???
Hi Jason. This is a very helpful article. I think I have this figured out, but based on your article, my 2’ x 4’ tiles will be going the wrong direction. We want our tiles to run perpendicular to our floor joists. So my plan is to run the T channel every 2 feet and then connect them with 2 foot sections. Being that we are using a very light weight, vinyl tile, I don’t see why it would matter if Tiles run parallel or perpendicular to floor joists. But I would love an opinion on that. Thanks!
I was wondering the same thing... my drop ceiling will be going from a room and then down a hallway that is 24 inches wide so I would like to run the 2x4 tiles long ways down the hall.
The tiles though would be perpendicular to the floor joists. Not sure why the main ts can't run every 2 feet instead of 4... or can they?
Tiles and grid can run any direction that you want. Just as long as you have a wire every 4' on your main runners. You can span joists with studs for a plumb wire or you can put 2 wires in from each adjacent joist tied in the same spot so it doesn't create tension from just a single wire. Also install wires on all your tees over 8 inches. Don't overlap wall angle it's best to butt factory ends. Pop rivets work best for 1'' grid all others should be tied in with L- Clips.
If a tile is in a tough spot to get it into , go to an area in the ceiling that you can easily get the tile through and into the ceiling space between the grid and the joists. Once you have the tile all the way up inside the grid just pass the tile over all the grid pieces until you get it to the space you want it in. Hope that makes sense
How do you install the perimeter piece when you come to the stair wall. as it is at 45 degrees?
You cut a narrow strip at 45 degrees and attach that first to the area were the stairs are. Then attach your L angle to the strip.
I reconfigured my basement and need to add to existing drop ceiling grid. Looks like the previous contractor used a staggered method for installing the T bars, meaning I would have to dismantle a good portion of the ceiling. Are there adapter clamps to make this easier? Should I look for a ceiling contractor, do you know anyone in the Chicago suburbs?
House built in 1885. Room appears square but now seeing grid is off by about 1/2" from square -- tips... advice???
Hi Susan - Wow, old house. Those are my favorite! If you won't lose to much space you can square of your room with the framing, this way your drywall and flooring will all work correctly. There's not much you can do to fix the "un-squareness" of the external walls. Good luck! - Jason
Jason,
I appreciate your article. I bought a house a few years ago that was built in 1959. I ripped out the carpet upstairs and put in wood flooring. I do notice that the basement is a bit louder as a result. The ceiling in the basement is that old 'cardboard style tiling.' And the house has boiler heat, so there is a drop around the outside of the foundatation about 2" below the floor joists to accommodate for the copper piping.
I'm going to put in some drywall on the outside walls overtime. This article has convinced me a drop ceiling is the way to go though. This means I can fix some things over time - like grounded electrical to the refrigerator - speaker wires to the surround sound - cat6e plenum to reduce my tenancy for wireless - and copper piping for an icemaker in the fridge.
It might cost a bit more to do the drop ceiling. I'll gain it back in access as I work on these other minor issues over time. I have a ton of electrical capacity - so I may end up reworking some of the circuits over time.
Thanks for the article. I'm going to start planning this in a few days!
Brandon
I have a home built in 1906, the area I live in has constantly shifting foundation. The ceiling is high and has no insulation. I want to drop my ceiling and add insulation at the same time. Currently it has a cardboard type ceil that was hung in panels. I have paneling on the walls as well as furring strips about 14 inches below the ceiling. Do you still recommend the dropped ceiling you discuss in the video? This house is not mine, it is an apartment off my Mom's house so I can't fix the foundation first. My apartment is 600sf of a 3000+ sqft home. The ceiling appears buckled now so what do you suggest?
What was the big mistake?......
is it ok to screw the
L chanel on drywall without a backing
icf or fox block doesent have backing
I have a ceiling finished in drywall that is water damaged so I want to rip it out and install a drop ceiling. How do I best cut out the existing ceiling to produce less dust and do I cut the ceiling right at the wall corner? Any help would be appreciated.
Everyone should remember that building codes prohibit electric junction boxes that are buried (not accessible) behind a Sheetrock wall. Main reason for a drop ceiling in the basement is to maintain access to the household mechanical systems. Great article.
My house is 200 years old and the floor joices above have sagged over time. The far corner of the room is much lower than the side I added two 80" doors. So I need to basically have two levels of drop ceiling so the doors open obviously. How is the best way to turn up to a new elevation
Do you use rivets? Great video.
I do have all of the above with a small amount of the wall is straight. How do you line up the big t tracks when the walls do not start at the same place?
How do you build a drop for duct work?
Wish me luck I do not want to drop below basement windows on full side but two sides need to drop to cover plumbing on two walls :(
I have a landing up to a door that is higher than the intended ceiling. Can I install panels vertically (2') up to the level I need?
How do you join the main tees my room is over 12 feet long do they snap together? Is there a specific end to join them together?
Room is 12' wide x 32' long. Floor joists run in direction of the width so my main tracks will need to be 32'. I want 2' x 4' panels. Should I go with 2 mains and 4' crosses or 5 mains and 2' crosses (and why)?
Hey Bob- I would go 5&2. Aesthetically, I think the 4' panels would look better parallel to the 32'.
-Jason
They snap together. No additional hardware required.
Does the ceiling have to be strapped? Should I remove the strapping that is there?
Hey Austin - Not sure what you mean by strapping. If you have strapping running perpendicular to the joists, then i'd leave it. It'll act as bridging. As far as the drop ceiling, no need need.
-Jason
Hey Christoper - Its about $2.00 a square foot for materials. Here's a cool calculator if you want to change the variables.
-Jason
I was told to buy rivets, are they necessary?
Hey Palmer - Not a necessity but certainly an option for securing them together.
-Jason
I have electrical wires (from main electric box)that need to go thru the drop ceiling. Should I attach the wires to the drywall, cut the L strip to the wire, then attach another piece of the L strip on the other side of the wire and continue or should I make cuts in the ceiling tile for the wire to go thru?
Hey Susan - Best practice would be to run the wire inside the wall instead of through the ceiling or L-channel. But, if you don't want to do that then I'd just run it through the ceiling because it'd be easiest.
- Jason
installing a drop ceiling. one wall will be tiled other 2 plastered. should i run the tile all the way up the drywall then install ceiling or install ceiling and tile up to track?
Hey Bill - I'd install the drywall first, then the track, followed by the tile up to the track. I think that's the easiest process and cleanest finish.
-Jason
Can you use 4’ mini T’s joined together to make a main T?
I suppose you could, but you'll have more labor in making it work.
- Jason
I'm wondering if/how you attached a handrail for your stairs with the drop ceiling?
Installing a drop ceiling in basement. Bought 12 foot "T" bars for main lines through the room. BUT the T bars begin with a 3" space from the end, which conflicts with putting cross bars at 24" or 48" spacings from the wall. ??? What do I do to get started with the proper spacing of 2 or 4 feet from the wall???
Hey Kevin - It's hard to visualize your dilemma. If you have enough material, just nip off the 3" inch space and start flush.
- Jason
Hey Jason, I want to install a drop ceiling in my basement but the dimensions are weird. So the T-channels are 12’ but my basement is about 24’-4”. How would I make it so there’s no gap?
Would I have to buy another 12’ T-Channel and cut it down to 4”? Seems like a waste.
very helpful good job
I’m having trouble clicking together the 2 ft tees where they go through the 4 ft tee, what am I’m not doing correctly . Found 7.6 x 12.6 area first next room 11.6 x 25.6
where ca i buy the materials
I have an existing drop ceiling in our three season Florida room. It had a leaking roof which has been repaired. The leaking caused the framing to rust, so I want to replace the whole ceiling. Because it is an enclosed former aluminum patio, that I what the suspended ceiling is suspended from. Part of it is angled to be higher in the back. What are the best sort of tiles to handle a variety of temperatures?
How far from bottom of pipe do I hang track
Thanks Adam for your tips on dropped ceilings. I agree with your theory on dropped ceilings are preferable over drywall in a basement. Even though a drywall ceiling would be nice it is not practical in a basement. With all the plumbing and electrical under the main floor it wouldn’t make sense to block it off if you didn’t have too.
For your information Adam your #1 video for dropped ceilings install will not open. Wrong address. Thanks Jerry.
I made my BIG mistake. Our room is 12' wide. I assumed the t-piece slots would be 2' in from the ends. Not so. 8 scrap beams and a trip to Lowes!!!
They could. You cut your main right thru the slot doesn't matter which one since they are every 6 inches. then connect the piece you cut off to the other end and you have a 12' piece with 2' spacing starting your first tee 2' off your wall.
Thanks for the video, pretty much knew what I needed to do but did get a few tips. Looking for your grid room design layout to see if it agrees with my design next.
Hi - Thank you for all this good info. Question on cutting and "splicing" MAIN-T's...
If I understand correctly, one end of the MAIN-T is carefully measured and cut, and butted against wall #1. That cut must be made to ensure correct distance for the 'edge' CROSS-T slot. The other end of that MAIN-T now has the tab / slot for splicing more MAIN-T length. But how do you measure and cut that splice piece of MAIN-T so that the far end also ends up with CROSS-T slot at the correct distance, so the grid is centered properly?
When cutie the perimeter Pisces, how or were do you determine the dimension from the end of the dove tail to the wall or where to where
Would i be able to introduce a drop roof in the storm cellar where the dividers are not wrapped up? There is no dry divider, simply the painted establishment divider. Much obliged.
How do you fasten L- channel to concrete block wall?
I would use Tapcon screws with a hex head.
Can I hang drop ceiling grid from bottom cord of HY joists ?
I plan on using 2x2 tiles of 1/2” drywall. This is for a workshop.
Great video. Getting ready to start install in a day or two or maybe even three. One question though. One of my walls has a bow in it. I saw in the video that you were able to correct about a 3/8" gap with a small wedge and later apply caulk. My one wall has an inch or so gap in it The gap gradually gets bigger from about 4' out from the end of the L bracket to the wall. Basically a 4' wedge with 0" to about 1"at the end. Any suggestions? Thanks for your input!
Great video, the details are awesome. The instructions w/ angle trim, & cross trim, to form the placement squares for the panels was very helpful. The way it was explained in a slow detailed manner was perfect..??
Great content! Thanks for sharing!
Thank you for the detailed explanation!
Great site layout! Thanks for sharing!
They could. You cut your main right thru the slot doesn't matter which one since they are every 6 inches. then connect the piece you cut off to the other end and you have a 12' piece with 2' spacing starting your first tee 2' off your wall.
Thanks for a great guide. Do you have any tips on how to achieve a perfectly straight line when sawing drywall?
Hey Robert - Get a drywall square for cross section cuts with your utility knife. The square rests on the side of the drywall and ensures a perfectly straight 90 degree, or perpendicular line. For horizontal cuts, I like to use my tape measure as a guide for my utility knife (hook the end to the side and slide it on the desired width the full 8' or 12' length of the drywall.
- Jason
How do you extend the L rail? With a butt joint, overlap, or is there a joining piece?