Just build a wall. What could be simpler? There's is a lot more to building a wall than you might think. Today I want to try and clarify a wall building concept that took me a long time to figure out and was really quite frustrating. It boiled down to which style of wall building should you do:
- Build your wall on the floor of your basement and then "lift it into place"
Or - Build your wall "in place", nail each board as you go (a.k.a. "stick-by-stick" )
Build a wall, then lift it into place
Let's talk about option "A" first, build a wall on the the floor and then lift it into place. Several of basement and construction books have photos of two people working together, building the wall on the floor of the room they are finishing and then lifting it into place.
From a visual standpoint this is the easier method to understand. This was the first method that I used. My "one small wall" was going to be about 8 feet long and I had plenty of room on the ground to build it.
It was a little tricky using this method solo because you need to hold the wood straight as you start to screw them together. (Yes, I recommend starting with screws because it's easier to back out of a mistake. And yes… you will make a lot of mistakes at first.
4 Reason NOT to build a wall on the floor and lift:
- Can be difficult to do solo.
- Lifting into place means a gap that you'll have to shim, no way around it.
- You won't always have the floor space to build the wall
- It's a slower method of building
I built about 3 of the walls on the floor and lifted them into place before I ran into a spot where I just didn't have the room on the floor to do so. Then I had to learn the stick by stick method. Once I did, I never went back, it's the only way to go. I highly recommended that you build your test wall on the floor but do the rest stick by stick.
Build a wall stick by stick (or "in place")
The tricky part about building a wall board by board is that it takes some practice and testing to figure out exactly how to do it.
The toughest part for me was understanding that I had to use a plumb bob to transfer the location of the top plate to the floor. This is the only way to know exactly where to line it up so that the wall was plumb (straight up and down).
I'm going to give you my version of the steps below but I would still strongly recommend reading 2 or even 3 books that have a framing section that shows you how to do this. By reading it from several different perspectives, plus trying it out yourself, it should start to click.
(UPDATE: I've been looking all week for a YouTube video on how to do this but everything I've found is build on the floor and lift, looks like I may need to be the first. The books however, do have pictures and example)
[ I've included basement books that include this info at my Amazon store, an affiliate link. ]
8 Steps to build a wall in place for your basement
- Line up the top and bottom plates and mark where the studs need to go, starting from the end make a mark every 16". (check your local code to see if this differs but 16" on center is fairly standard). Don't worry if you forget this step, you can measure each seperately, this just makes it easier.
- Nail your top plate to the ceiling joist. You may need some "blocking" if your top plates is parallel to the joists. If you're working solo like I was then use a couple of quick-grip clamps to hold the top plate in place while you position it and secure it.
- Plumb down to the floor and mark two points for your bottom plate. Use a chaulk line to snap a line between these two points. Your snapped line will run parallel to the wall.
- Place your bottom plate on the floor and line it up on the line you just snapped. Even though you don't have any vertical studs in place at this point your top and bottom plates should be almost perfectly aligned. DON’T NAIL IN YOUR BOTTOM PLATE JUST YET.
- Cut and install a stud (a vertical board for the wall) into the top and bottom plates. The stud should fit snug in between the top and bottom. It should be able to stand up on its on. If you have to really hammer on it to get it in then it's probably to long. Take it down and trim a small amount off.
- Repeat step 5 until all of the studs are in place. You may have less than 16" between the last two boards, that's okay.
- Take your 4' level and double check that the wall is plumb (up and down) and relatively flush on the service. By flush I mean that none of the studs are bowed so much that they stick out further than the other studs. If they do then you'll have a hump in your drywall and your wall will look wavy. A bowed stud who's hump goes towards the wall is better, the drywall will still be straight on the outside.
- Nail your bottom plate into the floor. I recommend a concrete masonry gun. Mainly because it uses tiny little bullets and you basically have a gun in your basement, very cool. You may see some videos/books where they glue it down first, I didn't do that. Mainly because I messed up a lot at first and needed to be able to move the wall a bit. The contractors I consulted with said it was not a big deal to skip it (for a basement project).
TIP: If your bottom plate is not perfectly straight you may want to nail one end of the plate into the floor first and then use a small sledgehammer to knock the rest of it into alignment before you nail it down. You'll know this because the bottom plate won't line up perfectly with the chalk line that you snapped.
I hope that helps. Building a wall on the floor by yourself can be really frustrating. My second wall took me about two hours to prep and then when I lifted it into place it didn't fit because one section of the basement floor was just slightly higher. It was killing me that I had to undo most of it and guess what, I had nailed it together so that was not easy.
Once you get the hang of how to build a wall stick by stick you can do it by yourself and it's actually really fun. I promise you you'll be sneaking down to the basement before you go to sleep to get one last look at what you've created.
Good luck, ping me with questions, I'm working on a video to go along with this article because I couldn't find any that I liked to share with you online. If someone finds one please tell me!
Cheers - Jason
This is such an awesome website, and such great advice. Thanks so much for documenting your learnings, mistakes, recommendations, etc.
Hey David, thanks for stopping by. So glad you like it... more to come! - Jason
I like to build on the floor it's easier no basement is level so every 2-3 studs check the hight or check at several locations Along where the walls is going. If it's within 1/4 inch us the shortest more the that cut each board separate.
Had 1 basement where 10' span it was off 2 inches 1 side to the other.
I use the floating plate method its even easier,
Great info. About to start my basement project and stumbled on your site. Unreal, there is a website for everything! It never occured to me to type in ifinishedmybasement.com! Anyhow a quick question...if you build stick by stick, what method are you using to nail in the studs? Obviously if you "pre build" the wall on the floor you can nail the studs directly into the top and bottom of the plates. If the plates are installed first you can't do that. Are you toe nailing everything? I definately agree on the stick by stick method in the basement environment due to the uneven floors, but it seems nailing in the studs will be a bit more messy. Thanks again!
Chris - Did you see my other site? http://www.icutmyownhair.com? Just kidding, although... the domain is available. That's great that you've started. Yes, toe nailing is the way to go. In fact it's the only way, as you said, when you're stick building (highly recommended). It's rock solid and it's all hidden by the drywall once it goes up. Good luck! - Jason
Hey Jason,
To extend Chris' question, how did you toe nail exterior walls to both the top and bottom plates? For a partition wall, it would make sense to "stick build," considering the room to work with a hammer on both sides of the plate. However, when an exterior wall is just inches away from the concrete wall, how is it even possible to maneuver a hammer for the backside toe nail? Great site!
Dan - I think I'm understand this correctly, you're asking how to nail in your outside framed walls to the joists and floor? The top plate of your wall will nail straight up into the floor joist above (no toenail required). Same for the bottom plate, except you'll need a concrete gun, but again straight down. You'll have to toenail the studs to the bottom and top plates but you should have plenty of clearance for that. The only part that was really tricky for me was when I needed blocking. For that, I couldn't fit my nail gun in place so I had to use screws and an impact driver.
My video series does the best job of explaining how exactly how to do framing. It's definitely one of the trickier concepts to write about.
Hope that helps! - Jason
Hey Jason! I also had to do blocking and here is a fast method I came up with and used with flawless results (framing gun): Take the peice of 2×4 that you cut to size for blocking and clamp it to a similar piece but an inch or so longer. The longer piece is on the bottom. Put the blocking in to place (use the hammer if it's tight). The longer piece on the bottom won't let the original piece go higher than the joists, so you can shoot the framing gun at an angle through them. Remove clamp and reuse the longer piece. Hope this helps!
Jason , an investment in a palm nailer is well worth the $35-40 they cost. They can fit about anywhere and handle much easier than a hammer.
Hi Doug - I've never used one myself but I've heard other people like them. Yes, definitely worth the money over manual hammering. - Jason
The solution is to toe nail into the SIDE(3 1/2'" dimension) of the stud. Place one fastener (min) on opposing sides. I highly recommend using screws instead of nails, especially for newbies. I don't agree that it is faster. If it was, professional framers ( I framed for 3 years) almost NEVER use a toenail unless it is necessary, usually when you join trusses to top plates and in valley framing. Another option is the use of mechanical fasteners, such as joist hangers or hurricane ties. They can be applied to the top and bottom plates before the plates are installed so you just slip the studs in place and screw the to the brackets. BAM! easy exact placement of the studs, and its structurally superior to nailing alone.
Dude. Joist hangers. That is such a brilliant idea. Couple of buck more expensive than toe-nailing/screwing, but arguably worth it for noobs/non-framers. Thanks!
Hi Jason,
Love the site! Getting ready to start on my basement!! Fortunately, it's partially finished(WOOT WOOT!!) I still have to do the exterior framing on the walls. But all rough electrical, plumbing, etc is already in place. Once I get the framing done, I can run the outlets, lights, switches, etc. Then have the drywallers come in. My question for you is INSULATION? I see in your pics that you use the R13 Batt with a moisture barrier. Do you do this to save space or is it just preference. I was considering using the foam panels and gluing them to the exterior walls, then framing out from there. What's your opinion?...
Rick - Thanks man. No preference really. For me it was just easier to work with and a bit cheaper but both are good options. Have fun with it! I love our basement. - Jason
Jason,
Have you used steel studs, or primarily lumber? Thinking of giving wall framing the ole college try, and thought I'd test it out on some crappy 2x4s from Lowes before graduating to the good stuff.
Great website...thanks. Gives hope to hacks like myself.
Thanks,
Steve
Hello Steve - I've never used steel studs, I heard those are nice but they're a whole different ballgame. College try? I don't know about you but my college effort was sub-par at best. I want to see some astronaut effort out there, you either make it off the moon or you die trying!
Good luck! That is all.
Jason
can I use regular 2x4 for bottom plate or should I use treated lumber.
John - Definitely use treated lumber for your bottom plates. - Jason
What you don't make clear is that the end stud, at the corner or at the doorway, is not included in the 16"on center. The first 4x8 piece of Sheetrock must start at the EDGE, not at the center of that stud. So, the first space between the first two studs is smaller than the other spaces by 3/4 of an inch. If this is not clear, then the first piece of Sheetrock will end at the edge, not the center of the fourth stud.
Where ever you start your layout..you hook your tape on the end and Mark 15.25,31.25,47.25 and so on then you first sheet will be a full sheet of drywall and so on until the end. You really want to think about where you will start your drywall. Another option is the next wall that runs into it you can start layout at 15.75,31.75 and so on bc of the 1/2" drywall and that will start that wall with another full sheet
We are just starting the planning phase of finishing our basement and are very excited to start building. In our area we need to build a floating wall because of potential movement of basement floor. Can you still build it stick by stick in this way? If so, how does that work?
Adam - The in-place method is not ideal if you're building a floating wall because you will not have a secure top plate to nail your studs into. I've never built floating walls but this video explains it pretty well. http://videos.wisegeek.com/videos/362335358.htm -Jason
Thank you!
Jason - Great site. I'm looking to finish my basement by mid-2013. I've started reading up on everything. One book I am reading says to use furring strips against the foundation walls, not 2x4s. What do you know about this? I think I would prefer 2x4s just to be consistent.
Hey Paul - That's awesome - 2013 is your year! I also read about furring strips and I considered them strongly. But in the end the cost savings weren't really there and things like receptacles and light switches seemed to all be standardized for 2x4 construction. The professional companies I talked to also all use 2x4 and not furring. It's an option, and it's not a bad one, but I would personally recommend 2x4 unless there's a specific reason to go against the standard.
Great question, good luck on your basement finishing project!
Cheers - Jason
Hi Jason, really enjoying your site. Good work. I am just embarking on a scary big basement project, over 1500 sq ft. I have done a fair bit of outdoor construction before (decks, fences, etc) but havent done walls, and your site is very helpful.
Couple questions: The basement walls (concrete) are not studded yet, but do have 3" of spray foam applied to them. I'm told I neednt worry about vapor barrier as a result. This true? I'm in Canada, so cold is definitely a concern. Any other concerns framing inside of spray-foamed concerete?
Other thing is by code I need to "float" the walls on big nails to allow for floor movement. Basically there are 2 bottom plates separated by 1 1/2" and big-ass nails driven through them both so the wall can move up and down on the nails. Crazy. You have any tips or experience on doing this? It has me a bit freaked.
Cheers,
Erik
Regina, Saskatchewan
Nice! 1500 square feet - you can do tons of stuff with that space. Okay, I've never built a floating wall but a few people have asked now. This video is the best explanation I've found on the web. http://videos.wisegeek.com/videos/362335358.htm Doesn't look to bad, but definitely a bit more work that just nailing it into the concrete. Erik - There's a free Gold membership (book and design files) for you if you'll send me some pics and video of your floating wall, I really want to do an article on that! Cheers - Jason
If it isn't nailed down first, how do you keep the bottom plate from sliding around on the floor while you are standing up the studs? What is the benefit of waiting?
Nathan - The big benefit to me was that I wasn't sure if I had built the wall straight and plumb, especially for my first couple of walls.
I was worried that if I nailed it to the floor first and then had to adjust it that I would have to rip it out of the floor. Not easy.
If you cut the studs the right length they will put enough pressure on the bottom plate to hold it in place. For me, a perfect length cut meant I needed to tap the top of the stud with my fist or rubber mallet to get it to fit between the top and bottom plates. That's "Tap" NOT "Pound". If I cut it too short I'd have to shim it or more often just toss it and use it some place else. I DID nail the stud to the bottom plate, so once you had a few in place the entire wall moved together. Then if it was not plumb I could just knock it with my foot or sledgehammer to line it up.
Hope that helps. - Jason
Which books at your store have the stick by stick method discussed?
Hmm, thought I already submitted this.
Which of the books at your Amazon store have info about stick by stick framing? BTW, thanks for the deal on your book! Downloaded last night just in time...
Jason;
The guy at the lumber yard suggested I start my wall about a half inch out from the wall for some dead air space (like extra insulation of sorts). Looking at it now, I'm thinking it looks like a challenge. Hard to not have the wall to work against. What do you think?
Cheers,
David
Hey David - Yes, he's right. You should have some space. And... you're right too, it's harder without the cinder block wall there as a reference. It's a little tricky to explain in text and pictures. I have a step by step wall framing video as part of the package deal with my book. Of course, I'm a bit biased, but I highly recommend it! A lot of people have told me it's worth 2 to 3 times the cost.
Good Luck! You can finish your own basement.
Jason
Thanks for the quick reply! Well, talking to some other folks and hearing from you, I'm gonna do that gap after all; a whole inch actually. One other thing- I've seen so many differing opinions on vapour barrier that it's hard to tell which one is right. Right now, I'm thinking I will put the barrier over top of the insulation, on the outside of the studs before putting up the drywall. What say you?
David
David - I can't reliable comment on the vapor barrier question, at least not yet. I just haven't done enough research on it nor have I had to install my own. I'm hoping to add some articles in the near future on this topic. Let me know if you find any good resources. Thanks - Jason
I'll keep that in mind!
Cheers,
David
I leave no gap I use foam on a roll to seal each cavity glued to the back of the studs and to the bottom stud to keep from contacting the floor directly. This way each cavity 8s sealed and any air leaking in will be limited to a cavity not the entire wall. I used acoustic sealent on all the studs to the vapor barrior with minimal staples to not make holes in it and get perfect seal. My basement is super warm.
You didn't mention anything about securing the studs to the plates.
Great site. I would love to see a section or video on framing corners and corners less than 90 degrees such as 45 degrees. Keep up the great work.
Bob
Thanks Bob - I'll add that to my list.
This was great information for starting on finishing our basement, but I'm really apprehensive about attaching the bottom plate. I would really rather not compromise the concrete floor for fear of water seeping up through. We have a very old home and something I've never seen in our basement. There is a 2inch wide trough around the perimeter of the whole basement. We have been here 3 year, had some rather significant rain and snow fall and never had standing water in the basement, sometimes the trough has a little water in it but never enough to overflow. It really seems like a pretty clever way of keeping any water out of the basement but kind of puzzles me about working around it to put up exterior walls. Do you think it's ok just to place the wall a few inches in front of the trough? Is it possible to NOT attach the bottom plate?
Hi Danielle - Yes, you will have to attach the bottom plate. Not knowing the exact condition of your flooring I recommend you put up a small test wall to see how the nail adheres to your concrete. Does it break apart, etc. I also would recommend you use an adhesive in addition to nailing your bottom plate.
As for the water trough, you should be able to build in front of that, just give it a couple inches of clearance so it's no compromised. These days those are installed outside of the foundation, not inside.
Your situation is unique and I would recommend have a few professional companies come out to give you a quote and an opinion on the water trough. You will also want to check with your local building department to make sure you'll be up to code with that trough exposed behind the wall.
I know this sounds like a lot of work, but it's just the first step of many. Get these "hammered" out, so to speak and you'll be on your way. You can do it!
- Jason
Thanks for the helpful tips. I took the plunge this week and started my first wall. I'm using your recommended stick by stick method. SO far so good thanks to my new 12" saw (purchased from your amazon store) and new nail gun! Using real power tools makes a big difference.
Matt - That's awesome! Thanks for purchasing through the store, I saw that go through. Good luck with it, stay safe and have fun.
Jason
I am in a newly constructed house and looking to finish my basement immediately. I've heard from various people that we should wait to do anything (including painting) until the house is settled. What are your thoughts on this particularly pertaining to the basement?
Thanks!
Hi Jason,
This website is so informative, we really appreciate the effort you have made to enlighten us . We are keen to get started and hopefully save ourselves lot's of money.
Lynettej
When building an interior wall my city's code states that there has to be a gap on top or bottom or the wall to prevent cracking due to ground expansion. Do you have any tips/advice on how to best achieve this gap?
Thanks!
Hi Kurt - So what you need to build is a "floating wall". Unfortunately I don't have a specific link or article for you just yet. - Jason
hi jason, awesome website buddy.
the 'buid-a-wall' section made sense to me until the point you started step 1.
would have helped if there were some pictures/video demo.
1.did you actually included the pictures/vids for building a wall in your book?
also,
2. do you teach small projects in the book? or is it just on website?
once again, good work. really impressed by your way of presentation.
Hello Sunny - Yes! I have several videos (that are included when you purchase the book) showing how to build a wall- step by step. The book and videos should give you 95% of what you need to know to finish your basement. The only things I don't cover are drywall and plumbing. It's been used / tested / revised after feedback from over 2,000 amateur DIY homeowners - many of whom did in fact finish their own basement. You can do itk! - Jason
I am stick building a basement wall and have a question I haven't found a google answer for. The wall is split at the ceiling by a (steel) structural beam. I can't make a continuous string line to ensure straightness at the ceiling, but I understand I should install that beam first. What's a good way to make sure the two "halves" of the ceiling beam line up?
Hi Andrew - Great question. What you want to do is draw a single continuous line (snap a chalk line) on the floor first. Then use a plumb bob to transfer two or three reference points to the ceiling. Use a clamp or a friend to hold the string end of the bob to the joist in the ceiling, then see if the point of the plumb bob is pointing directly at the reference line on the floor.
Once it's lined up, mark and X on the spot where the string is meeting the ceiling joist, that's your reference point. You can mark the front or the back of where the bottom and top plates will go, I found the front to be the easiest.
It takes a little time to get the plumb bob just right but the results are worth it, a super straight wall. Hopefully I've explained it ok. Good luck!
Jason
What is a "plate?" Everythiong is defined so well, but not the term "plate," yet it seems to be a pretty important term. The whole process comes to a halt because I don't know what a plate is. Is that one of those metal things that the wood sits in?
The "plate" is just another word for saying the wood beam that makes up the bottom of your wall. It's not metal (unless you're framing your whole basement with metal). The "top plate" and "bottom plate" are just referring to the wood beams making up the top and bottom of the wall. It's called a plate because the rest of the wall studs sit on top of it. As a steak sits on top of a plate. Good question. - Jason
Could you talk about toe nailing? How many nails do I need at each end of the stud? How can I nail them without the stud moving?
Hi Lori - I used 2 nails on each end of the stud. Getting the stud not to move is more art than science, it certainly took a little practice for me to "nail" it. Ba-ha-ha, nail puns. What I did first was to try and cut the stud so it just a touch longer than it needed to be - this way it was already snug in it's place before I went to nail it. I would also set it back a .25 inch or so from vertical - knowing that it would move just a bit once it nailed it in place.
Do NOT place your left hand anywhere near where the nail is going to go - some boards have weirds knots in them that can make a nail turn in unexpected ways - very common injury is someone toe-nailing their hand! - Jason
ps. I cover this topic in detail and with video in my basement finishing course.
Jason,
I am thinking about putting in a Dricore subfloor. Do you have any experience with this product? I have seen that you can put the Dricore down first and build the walls on top of it. I have also seen it where you can build the walls and then fit the dricore in, which requires more cuts, etc... It seems like Dricore recommends putting the floor down first, but I want to make sure I do it right the first time. I am assuming I would just nail the bottom plate right through the Dricore, but not sure if I need to use pressure treated for the bottom plate. I may do it for peace of mind. Any thoughts on the Dricore and how it fits with building walls?
Hi Robert - I haven't used Dricore, so my experience is zero. I would still frame the walls first and then install the dri-core. As a general rule I recommend doing the flooring last. If you do end up using it, be sure to come back and let us know what you thought of it. - Jason
Wondering how you secure the studs when using the building wall in place method. Do you use screws and drive at 45 degrees?
Hi Dave - I use a nail gun and "toe-nail" two nails at the top and 2 at the bottom. Each at a roughly 45 degree angle. Screws are slower and more expensive but they work fine and are perfectly legal per code. In fact I started with screws for my first couple of walls because I didn't have a nail gun and wasn't quite ready to commit to nailing top-plates to the joists in my house. Good luck, hope that helps! - Jason
Love the information Jason.
I'm about to finish my basement and have done basements before. My issue is that the outside of my basement is metal studding. Do i have to use metal for inside walls or can i use wood?
Thanks
Dan
Hey Dan - Unless there's some weird reason you must use metal wood walls will be fine. Good luck! - Jason
Jason, I have a new home and I want to finish the basement myself. The joists in the the ceiling are I-joists, formed from plywood sandwiched between two thin (1 inch) pieces of what look like furring strips. when my walls are running parallel to these joists, how do I attach the ceiling plates to the I- joists? Thanks for any advice you can offer.
You have to put 2x4's between the joists, level with the bottom of the joist, it's called blocking. Nail the top plate of your wall to the blocking. I spaced mine every 24 inches. This process takes a lot less time with a laser measure.
Jason
Great site and appreciate the advice. One question I have is what are your thoughts on using 2 bottom plates (non treated on top of treated) Is this a waste of money or would it make sense when it comes to drywalling and finish trim leaving more room for screwing and nailing? I appreciate your input.
Thanks
Rick
Hey Rick - In my opinion it's a waste of money. You can use the vertical studs to secure trim. In "some" areas you have a double bottom plate where floating walls are required, but that's not the case for most areas. - Jason
Thanks for this tutorial! I'm a little late to the party. What do you mean by "plates" when you talk about lining up top plates and bottom plates? Thanks!
Hi Trina - You're fashionably late. "plates" are just a fancy building word for boards. 2 x 4's. When you say a "plate" you are just referring specifically to the board at the top of the wall or the bottom of the wall - versus the vertical boards (or studs) that are in between the top and bottom boards. Does that help? Very common question, I appreciate you asking. ALL questions are welcome here guys - don't let ANYONE try to tell you there's a dumb question - ask away! I won't bite. - Jason
I am a contractor and was intrigued by the original link's picture and was curious why it was marked with a red X. After reading your article I understood why. For a beginner, building a wall and lifting it into place poses many challenges. Lol. Even for a "professional ", sometimes lol
I do mostly renovations and 1, screws are better. 2, stick by stick is sometimes all the space you can work in. Lol. After reading the article I realize that you are well on your way to learning a trade. Congratulations on not being intimidated.
Thanks Sean - I've heard from several contractors who have a tough time understanding why some of the very basics of finishing a basement need an explanation. But as you say in your comment - for a beginner - there's a different starting point. - Jason
I am finishing my basement and my contractor does not want to nail the stud into the top plate. what is the purpose of the top plate?
Hi Rhonda - The top plate connects the studs to the ceiling of your basement. It is absolutely require, there's no way to build a wall without it. Now, you may see that some people use a "double" top plate.... I don't know why, single should be all you need. If someone knows why you would have two and wants to chime in on the comments - I'd love to hear it. - Jason
A double top plate is used for framing walls that are intended to bear loads from the roof, floors, etc. They are required to distribute the load from floor joists/trusses/rafters that do not fall directly above a stud. Because finished basement walls are not carrying any load (other than the weight of the drywall) the double top plate is not required, just like how headers are not required above door and window openings.
The reason for sometimes using double plates is to "Tie" the walls together at corners. This used to be standard practice, for good reason.
The bottom of the plate pair on one side of the corner is cut to the outside of the intersecting wall, and the top of the plate pair is cut the the inside of the intersecting wall. That way the corner ends up like a halving joing, giving plenty of room for vertical nails or screws to "Lock" the two walls together. This makes loadbearing walls, especially outside walls much stronger. For non load bearing walls, such as the infill basement walls discussed here, it is probably unneccessary. But interlocking double top plates especially, (and bottom plates if no continuous foundation is supporting it) make a significant difference to the strength of a building, and in a severe weather or seismic event, could easily make the difference between little or no damage, and complete failure. It also means that for long walls where the individual timbers are too short to make up the full distance, the top and bottom halves of the plates can simply be overlapped at the joints to make a very stong continuous plate, which before the invention of pressed metal connectors etc, was the best, simplest, and easiest way to build a strong wall. It still makes sense today!! It gives a wider nailing area for attaching linings etc. During a storm or an earthquake, I would rather be in a house with double plates in a storm than in an equivalent one with single plates.
Hey! Good tips and I really appreciate your taking the time to answer so many questions! I wanted to strongly encourage everyone to pay a visit to their local building department before starting this process! If you live in an area with expansive soil, you MUST install a float joint in the wall to isolate the slab from the wall framing. Remember that your house is supported by your foundation walls, not the slab, if you build a wall using this method and your (lightly loaded) basement slab heaves, it can cause serious structural damage to your entire home! As a native to Denver and a structural engineer, I have seen firsthand the destructive power of expansive soils! Play it safe and get a permit!
Great tips otherwise! Hammer on.
I live in an area with clay soil. I soil is prone to heaving how do I construct a walls in the basement that will float with the heaving affect?
Hi Steve - You'll need to build a what's called a floating wall. It's basically a technique for framing that allows the the wall to heavy up and down with the soil. Unfortunately I don't have an article or video for you on floating walls. The regular wall framing video would get you 80% there but you'd need to supplement with a few floating walls instructions from YouTube or other source. - Jason
Jason, any comment or link to another thread on walls where there is ductwork and no place to attach to the joist? Can you just block to the vertical concrete wall or is a soffit acceptable? Thanks!
Hi Derek - In most cases the pipes or ductwork is close enough to the wall that people just build a soffit around it and then frame the wall underneath. In some cases the obstruction sticks out quite a bit or sits down quite low to the point where it's best to just frame the wall in front of it. You lose some square footage but sometimes it's the only option. It would be nice if builders would stop taking shortcuts and learn to embed the mechanicals into the joist bays! - Jason
When framing in a basement, it is perfectly fine to build a wall on the ground and you will not have to shim the wall. The reason for this? A floating wall, due to settling/movement of the foundation slab. So for a basement, build your wall before putting it into place. You will end up gluing and nailing a 2x4 on the concrete that will help hold your floating wall in place. You will want about a 2-3" gap between the bottom of your floating wall and the top of the 2x4 on the concrete slab. Then, you drill holes every 32" through the bottom plate of your floating wall and hammer 1/2" x 5" long nails through these holes into the 2x4 on the slab. Now you have a floating wall!
Hey Cedric, and people reading Cedric comment - I've never built a floating wall so I can't comment on whether this is right or wrong. I do know you can also build a floating wall in place (which I recommend) but that's not to say you can't do it on the floor then lift into place. Both are legit methods. Good luck floating wall guys - sorry I don't have more on that. - Jason
I disagree.....as contractor i build walls on the floor constantly. It is much faster. I double plate my top while its on the floor and then stand it up. I cut the studs tight and then pitput the top where I want it and use a 2lb sledge to knock the bottom in place. If the wall is a little tight, I hit a scrap piece of 2x4 with the sledge so I dont damage bottom plate.......takes me about 15-30 mrinites to build a wall by myself. By cutting them tight, you can stand wall up and wedge it well enough to then knock it around and fine tune it.
I suppose we agree to disagree then! Perfectly fine. Remember though, most of the readers here are NOT contractors. We don't build walls every day. For us... I recommend building in place, it's faster and easier. - Jason
I just went to get clamps and a plumb bob. . . I have always built walls that are assembled and then put in place. This will be a new adventure for me but I am determined to get walls framed in my basement before the upstairs perimeter walls arrive from the manufacturer. I even took it a step further and have ordered a gallon of clear coat concrete sealer to paint on the concrete floor before I lay the 2x4 on the floor. With any luck, I will be a seasoned wall builder by the end of July 2016! We are building a house ourselves, with help in areas we just can't do it from contractors, but a lot of the stuff we are doing ourselves! Wish me luck. If you want to see what is going on, send me a friend request and I will add you to my private house building facebook page! Lots of neat things to make this house so energy efficient.
Wow, very cool Nancy. Impressive!
Just started on my basement this summer, only been doing a small amount at a time as time allows. I have been looking at ways to do this and save a few bucks in the process. So far I have done it both ways, on the floor and piece by piece, if you have space and help both ways work. I did a short wall on the floor by myself, didn't like it cause it twist at first and somewhat a hassle so, I opted for stick mwthod. As I move forward I'll continue to do the stick or build in place , if you prefer.
My basement has 9' ceilings and I couldn't find studs long enough to have a single plate on top. So, with double plates on top, is there a trick to getting the top plate in the right place? A plumb bob just isn't precise - it can move a little, so I prefer to set the bottom plate first and then plumb the wall with my level on the studs as it goes up, but I've been a little off on some and the top plate that I thought was in the right place ends up sticking out a little from the second top plate. Does that make sense? I need to nail the top of the two top plates to the joists above before I nail the other top plate to it.
Hi Jason
I live in Moco county . I have a half basement which is partially finished . I mean it has concrete walls and cemented floor. It's 550 square feet . It has HVAC and water heater on the corner and I have crawl space too with sump pump. I want to finish the basement with room for Mechanical and home theater and kid play area. I might have to add wall only for the mechanical room and frame to add insulation and drywall around the basement . It's very confusing to me how to proceed and I did call permitting department . And They said I need to submit a plan .Apparently until yesterday night I was really not sure what to do . I did see your website last night. It's really wonderful . Since u live in Loudon what are ur thoughts reg Moco permit. What's your suggestion how to proceed ? I really do not have any idea to add plumbing . But do u suggest that I add Bathroon downstairs? Also I know when we bought they had issue in crawlspace and installed sumppump . But how to find out whether my basement has water issues ? Any of your thoughts and suggestions will help me . I would like to keep the cost down. I did get some estimates which is very expensive .
Thanks
Hi Anan - Well... I would start with my website. Read each article and that will give you a good baseline understanding - then if you think you're ready to tackle the project I would buy my book and video series over here. Not to brag but it's really pretty good. A couple of thousand people have bought it and finished their basements. It's not every single exact step, finishing your basement isn't paint by numbers, but it will get you started and it WILL save you a lot of time and money. Good luck! - Jason
I built my basement walls stick by stick and it worked great. Word to the wise ask for help when putting up the boards on the top or cut them shorter so they don't slip and give you a head injury for life.
Thanks Sandra. Head injuries for life would suck - be careful out there people - safety first!
you forgot to explain one key procedure and the primary reason that people build walls on the floor and raise them into place. How do you fasten the vertical 2x4's to the top and bottom plates. The old timers did this with "toe nails" which is difficult to do and maintain alignment esp on the top plate. I've done essentially using screws and the pocket hole method. It's pretty slow and not commercially acceptable. What method do you use?
Hi Jason, great article, thanks for putting it together.
One question for my own basement project, hopefully I can describe this properly thought text.
One of my walls has duct work running along it (parallel) the entire way. (and is against a concrete foundation wall) This is preventing me from installing a top plate on the ceiling joists. What is the best way to work around this? All of my other walls have been stick by stick, but due to this issue I'm thinking Build and Lift may be better just for this case. I still have the issue of how to secure it though.
Thank you!
Brandon, I had the same issue in my basement. Definitely build on the floor and lift into place. Leave an inch or two of clearance below the duct in case you ever have to get to it, and so there's no rattling in the walls.
Also, since your top plate is not secured to anything (except probably at the ends) you'll have to anchor a couple of the studs to the foundation wall. Just get a carbide drill bit and some wall anchors (look like bolts inside a casing that you hammer into the wall) at the store, only a couple $ each. Drill a hole in the wall next to a stud, secure a small piece of 2x4 onto the wall with the wall anchor, then connect that small piece to your wall stud with another piece of 2x4 (like "blocking"). FYI, to drill the hole in the foundation, best to have an impact driver or a "hammer" drill. The normal, battery powered drills may not be powerful enough, and will take a long time.
Intimidated me at first, but actually pretty easy. Keeps your wall from being wobbly.
Just getting started- like your site. Did you ever put up a video on this? I plan to go with the stick method - but will be my first time using a plumb bob.
You missed the important first step which to eye ball each stud for the crown or the bulge of the wood and have it face toward you. Mark each stud accordingly or you will have a wavy wall.
Question. In your instructions above, why do you recommend nailing the top plate in first? In my case, I'm laying out everything and snapping lines on the floor for the bottom plates. Maybe I'm missing something because it seems if the top plate is attached not-quite-right then that will effect your layout on the floor too.
Thanks
Hey Erik - Just personally preference. You can also start from the bottom and plumb up. In my experience I did not have a top plate that had to be redone. Or if I did, I used clamps before I nailed everything together, so I could just make a small adjustment. Biggest tip - use really straight studs for your top and bottom plates!
You never said how to fasten the vertical studs- only one side is exposed, the side that's not facing the basement walll. Do you just fasten each vertical stud with one nail or screw at the top and bottom?
Ok. Saw that this question was already answered. (You can tell I'm a beginner)! Awesome method- the only way to go! Thank you!
Did you put a 14.5" spacer in between the studs to keep the stud from moving when you toenails it?
Hi Lori - I did not use any spacers. It did take a few tries to master it but I would leave a quarter to a half inch of space - the nailing would push the board just about where I wanted it. - jason
What do you use to hold the plumb bob line at the top while you are marking a center line in the bottom rail?
Hey Shawn - I use clamps. Check out this post on how to work "solo". - Jason
Thank you!
Plumb bob? Just use a long leveler!
He's right, you can also you a long level. But, it's a bit more expensive and I just didn't have one on hand. Besides, "plumb Bob", awesomer name. - Jason
Hey Jason
Do you put the insulation on the outter wall first, then the plastic and then the wall? We were thinking of the insulation that is like a board for our basement.
Thanks for your help. I love your explanation of how to do the framing.
Sherry
Jason, thanks for sharing stick by stick is how I build my walls as well. I just have 1 tip to add. Cut a board 14.5" long to put in between the studs while nailing or screwing. It keeps the studs from walking with you and gives you the 16" center.
Great idea Jimmy - I did this myself as well on a few occasions. - Jason
Jason
I have just looked at your web site and read most of the comments and answers. I have some questions for you. You claim that your method is much better than the method of building on the floor and standing u
This was decided by your experiences and research done online? Where do you reside in the world? Your generic comments dont fit everywhere around the world because of geological differences like soil type, temperature ranges daily or manually, moisture and humidity, seismic activity, hurican issues. And code requirements. I Don't recall any disclaimers anywhere. Do you know that by building a non bearing partition wall tight to manufactured wood products that it may cause failure in structural members? These wall are not suppose to bear weight and hold the floor assembly front it engineered movements. I think that you just want to promote your store and make money off innocent people. Not only do you want to sell books but you sell them tools also?
Any one can print a book and sell it on the web and even pay for a web site to improve finances. Even if it is not totally true. If your theory is correct why do every home building contractor use the build and Stand method. Yes they are professionals and you are targeting the DIY folks that are searching for answers. By giving them your method in many circumstances they will be setting themselves up for squeaking floors, cracked plaster and possible failure of structural members. The method you teach will void any manufactured truss warrantee out there.
If you can produce a licensed structural engineer whom agrees you method is better you shoul approa h the International Code Council or AWPA FOR code and standards CHANGES. Your method is one way but I as a code inforcement officer would steer any home owner asking advice away for you propaganda. Im sure you won't reply to this publicly just as you didn't any negative comment I read and you will probably erase my comments also but it is now off my mind.
Do you sell code books in your store? They are more accurate than what I see here.
Hi Larry - You're right. Each area is different, people are different, codes vary. This is the method I prefer. I have no experience beyond my own basement and I advise everyone to read and understand their local code, I say this multiple times in multiple ways across the site. Anyone who buys my book and videos will get this disclaimer in heavy doses. All of my work was permitted, inspected and even complimented by my local code enforcement officers. Last I checked, they were licensed engineers, and had no problem with how I framed the walls.
This site is also only about basements, not building a whole house or roofing trusses. This is about my experience and what I was able to do and what I know others can do. America was born and built on the CAN do attitude and a desire to learn, to take a few risks, to figure things out for yourselves. I don't want anyone to buy my book who wants ALL the answers, fitted exactly to where they live. You won't find that here.
Yes, anyone can build a website and offer advice, but no one has to buy it, or comment on it. I have two criteria for removing a comment 1. It's not related to basements 2. It's not helpful to my readers. I'm leaving your's up because I think it's helpful to readers.
Take necessary precautions, but don't let fear run your life.
Jason
I have done a couple of basement remodels and have framed walls both ways, pre framed built on the floor and stick built. I found building the wall on the floor to be much easier. However I did one thing different that I didn't see mentioned in your questions & answers. I used what I guess you would call a double bottom plate. I first laid out the bottom plate on the floor where the wall was to go and used tap cons to secure it. I then built the wall to the height considering the 1 1/2" bottom plate. You can then just slide or "tap" the pre framed wall straight in between the bottom plate and the floor joists above. Its easy to screw the bottom plate of the wall to the plate on the floor and the top plate to the floor joists
If you don't have the room to tip up walls or don't want to do it solo, you could always frame your basement with steel studs. It is easier and faster then wood framing.
Thank you! My husband wanted to build the wall first and then put it in place, and I thought, "That's not going to work. Let me google that and get back to you." I am so glad I looked it up. This will be so much easier. I do a lot of remodeling myself, so I usually know what I'm doing. :-)
I have to disagree on your framing method. Stick framing has its place, but if there is room to build on the floor, it's always much faster. I'm a carpenter and two guys can knock out a 16ft wall in 15-20 minutes on the floor while it takes 45 to stick. You only have to shim if you don't properly measure.
Please spell separately correctly. Studs may stick out farther but not further. All O.K. otherwise.
Disagree entirely with your approach. The advantages to laying out your walls and assembling them on the floor are numerous. It’s a lot faster. The floor will be even. The down side of your assembled wall will become your interior face meaning that face that edge will be smooth. Even. Your panels won’t wander. When you’re framing for windows, doors, butt or pony walls, overhead boxes for ductwork is faster and easier because you can see visually how it lays out. Your comment about space and shimming. I’ve not a hot luck clue what you’re making reference to. I do know there are some hard and fast don nots. Do not nail your top plates directly to the bottom of your floor joists. Over there be the house will settle and shift. You want at least a half inch gap at the top. You also want about a half to one inch gap from the wall. If you take a 2X4 and place it against the wall and put pencil marks every couple of feet it will tell you if your wall has any bows in it. That’s the reason for leaving that bit of a gap. All you need to do next is snap your chalk line and that’s where the face of the wall will sit. My late father was an accomplished handyman. I learnt my carpentry and masonry skills from him. I started helping when I was in elementary school and as I aged and progressed I was able to do more complex tasks. I’ve built several garages for friends and family. Done several basements for friends and family. I’ve done decks. Fences. I personally do not see a place for stick by stick framing. And lastly I think there’s a much greater margin for error. That’s my 2 cents. Hope I’ve not offended you.
No offense taken Wayne. I understand and I appreciate your position. However, I still stand by this method and literally thousands of basements have been framed this way with thousands of inspectors reviewing and giving the OK. Quite a few professional handyman and skilled carpenters have commented that they prefer to frame and lift, but most of my readers are not professionals - we're amateurs - and for them (for me) stick by stick framing is the way to go. My inspector and drywall guys all said my framing was excellent, no issues.
As a carpenter both work and both have there place and both can produce a good wall in minutes. However there Is one thing I would recommend to speed up time for stick framing
1- plumb or plumb bob the first stud, put a nail on top and bottom plates and then mark out 16” Centers or edge to edge of stud (14.5” gap between studs). This way you wouldn’t need to plumb every stud.
1.5- Basements floors generally move up or down over time and here in Canada it’s almost yearly. So we intentionally leave a gap at the top or the bottom. But that’s our code.
If it passed you did it right, so good job!
Hey Jason. Great website! Do you cover floating walls in your instructional videos? Thanks
Sorry Kevin, I don't cover floating walls specifically, although I have had several buyers who used the traditional videos as a starting point then supplemented their knowledge via YouTube for the floating aspects. - Jason
Rather than measuring and marking 16" for each stud, I cut a 14-1/2" spacer jig. After installing the first stud, I placed the spacer against it, then butted the next stud against the spacer. Result -- consistent spacing, plus something to brace against when attaching the stud. (Just another option.)
I would use tap cons go secure it to the concrete floor
I find building the wall on the floor much easier than the stick method. And I always double the top and bottom plate - the one that contacts the concrete with PT and the one on the wall that I am building with regular stud wood. I don't own a nail gun and have never been great at toenailing. I always plumb up the PT plate and nail it to the concrete so that I have a perfect place to line up my wall when I stand it up. In general, a basement wall is not too hard to stand up by oneself and if I need a little extra hand, a couple of braces fit the bill. Once the wall is up, I will use a few shims if needed and then I put in the blocking at the height of the drywall if running parallel with the floor. By the way, I always take multiple measurements of the height along the length of the wall to make sure the wall fits properly.
I am needing o do a wall in our building that isn't backed up to anything but splitting the building in two. The difficult part here is its 20' high and 40' wide. I was trying to figure out how to do the build on the floor and muscle up with pulleys or something, but will probably have to go with this stick method.
Hello, nice information. I would like to touch on your mention of needing to use shims and that building on the floor is slower. The use of shims is perfectly acceptable in this situation, just measure your shortest point and shim the rest. As far as it being slower to build on the floor, I just can't seem to see how that is the case. It also takes much less physical energy to build on the floor.
There is nothing wrong with stick building and toe nailing, it does allow you to see and fix mistakes as you go, but I would say taking your time and planning a little and building on the floor is also perfectly acceptable.
Thanks J for the info
You may want to add that for a basement wall the base boards should be the green tinted wood and not the kiln dries that is used on the rest of the wall. Also, the sheetrock should be installed using a 1 or 1/2 inch spacer to keep the drywall off the floor so if there is ever water in the basement, you just might save the drywall and having to redo the entire basement.
I'm doing a wall with a pocket door. Are there any important steps that you should follow? The door will be in the middle of the 9 ft wall.
Hey Sheala - I like the ambition to do something unique. Just double check the rough opening specs and make sure you don't put a light switch in the way.
- Jason
Great advice!!! I've tried to do this several times and failed miserably. Probably because I am a girl and had no clue what I was doing... But slowly I am learning and this has really helped my understanding. I never have an extra set of hands to raise the wall when. Uilt on the floor. Everyone told me this wouldn't work!! Can't wait to prove them wrong!! Thanks!!
I could frame that entire picture in 2 hours and yes, I build walls on the ground, no shims (just deduct 1/4” from overall measurements and your wall will have room to stand up ), use nail gun not screws and stand a 12’ wall up by myself. Plus, bad idea using using plastic as a moisture barrier unless you like to trap water in the wall cavities. All around terrible recommendations .
Hi, can you please explain why can not use screws?
Hey Phoenix - you can use screws but it'll be like a death of a thousand picks. Ok, may that's a bit exaggerated...I just think it's way slower.
-Jason
If you build them right, on the ground is by far the easiest. You simply measure each board. The only time I stick build is when there is no more room for building them on the wall. Several issues will arise when toe nailing everything.
He is right about having to leave a gap. Basement floors are rarely level and true, so if you want a tight fitting wall, stick method is the way to go(it is slower for sure).
At local big box home improvement store , us metal studs & frack
although I agree in a basement the build in place is a better method for the reason you describe, it is absolutely, in no way, the faster method... this is what I do for a living and I'm positive about that, however, the faster method is not necessarily the right method for quality and practicality... just my two sense. Happy new year.
Have you ever used screws to secure the bottom plate of a wall instead of a concrete gun?
Hey Joe- I've used Tapcon screws before. You can also use cut concrete nails. -Jason
Like Jason said, the big box stores carry the screws your looking for. Cut concrete nails will also work just fine.
If you cut a block 14 1/2” long you don’t have to measure your spacing and you have a block to toe nail your studs against.
Good tip Guy
I'm laughing so hard
Its only a stud wall didnt know so much could be said about it
Good morning Jason
Did you create a video on "stick by stick:" technique. I would like to view it if available.
Thank you for your support.
I am going to build a 25' outside basement wall. My question is, does the top and bottom plates each have to be one 25' long piece of lumber or can they just be pieces butted together?
Hey John - You won't find dimensional lumber > 16' long. Butting them together is normal, just make sure you put the break on a ceiling joist or located where a stud can split the difference.
- Jason
I took my pannel walls down now I need to insulate and drywall but now sure how to do my walls to put up.
Its going on two years of me remodeling my basement and im quite sure my wife is getting frustrated
How and what did you use to fasten the studs to remain in place?
I am wondering about building in place with a FLOATING wall...we are required to do that in our area of Colorado for our basement. We also had bozo builders who attached all flex hose water lines to the underside of the floor joists instead of safely thru them...but I'll have to tackle THAT issue a bit later!
Bottom plate should be treated or wrap 3 sides with building felt.
My builder installed Sheetrock on the ceiling in my basement per fire code. I now want to put up the walls . Do I have to cut out the rock on the ceiling or can I frame right up to it? My walls have the insulation blanket installed and the ceiling crevices are sprayed with fire block. Also the builder has wired the ceiling for lights and hvac installed. I m hoping I can just frame up to the ceiling joists
I am thinking to start my basement in a month, this information has been great help for me to get ready to start my project. Jason you are doing awesome work by sharing your experience. Thank you so much and kudos to you.
thanks. i think you forgot to mention to nail the studs to the plates, am I wrong?
Hi Jason,
I just started my basement project. My basement walls were already insulated from ceiling to floor, with the vapor barrier over it. I already put three wall frames up, but then my neighbour came over and said we needed to have the vapor barrier go under the base plates. I am not using treated 2X4s for the base plates. What I'm being told is that the base plate cannot be sitting directly on the concrete. Someone above mentioned wrapping 3 sides with building felt? What are your thoughts on this?
Any help would be appreciated.