Within about five minutes of looking at the brand new drywall in my basement I had a mild freak out attack.
The drywall guys didn't do anything wrong. They had dry walled the wall exactly as I had framed it.
This problem was that I had set the blue electrical box to deep in the stud.
So when I went to install an outlet switch or a plug it was not flush with the drywall.
In some cases they were so far back I couldn't even screw on a cover plate. I really had a minor freak out down in the basement.
I was throwing stuff, cursing up a storm and slamming back Miller Lights, thinking that all this little problem needed was some beer.
Despite my drunken tirade the problem did not go away. I determined that my only solution was to cut away some of the drywall, rip out the electrical box and then re-install it closer to the front of the stud.
I had about 15 different light switches or plugs that would need an adjustment of some type. This was going to take all weekend!
But then it hit me. Like Gallagher's sledge-hammer to a watermelon.
All I need to do is "extend" the electrical box. The wiring itself had plenty of length. The box can stay right where it is, I just need to extend it a bit so I can securely install the switches and plugs!
Off to Home Depot
I walked all the way back to the electrical section. Ever notice how the electrical section is usually way in the back? What's up with that? I searched all over but didn’t see anything.
Now, as a man, and a strong smart one at that, I do NOT like to ask for help. In almost all circumstances I would rather get kicked in the head by a horse.
But… it was either ask for help or spend the weekend ripping out drywall and re-installing electrical boxes. So I flagged down an orange apron.
There they were. Just simple little plastic frames. Various sizes and colors (why different colors...no freakin' clue). Problem solved!
Extra Long Cover Plate Screws
Oh, don't forget to buy extra long cover screws, one to two inches should do it.
Or, if you can, just do a better job of getting the depth of the box right in the first place.
Just keep in mind though, it's easy to extend a box, nearly impossible to make it shorter. So error on the side of caution.
Whether it's a box for light switches or plugs each one has a depth gauge mark on it. You just need to follow that gauge as best you can.
Not sure which boxes to buy? Check out the post on electrical boxes.
My 2 OCD Quirks
This was just an example. In my finished basement all screws are perfectly aligned!
So my two OCD moments are....
1. light switches that don't have the proper reveal depth.
2. non-uniform cover screws.
I just can't help myself. If I have a coin in my pocket and I walk past a light cover with mis-aligned screws, I have to stop a fix it.
The reveal edge on the switch can be a bit harder to fix. Sometimes you can tighten the cover down far enough to bend the metal a bit (always get metal switch plates, plastic is for suckers!).
Other times, it's to deep and you have to install an extender to fix it (turn of the power first!!!)
So look, don't have a heart attack if this happens to you. And don't berate your drywall crew, when it's really your fault.
Just remember this post and go solve your problem for about .83 cents.
Cheers - Jason
Extend Your Learning (see what I did there):
- Here's a great article by Pretty Handy Girl, showing how to install an extension
- Some great books on wiring, how to wire your basement.
- Head back to the basement wiring page for more
We have all been there with this! The different colors are different thicknesses. So make sure to measure how far back you are in the wall. Get the closest thickness...WITHOUT GOING OVER!
Great web site. I've checked it out a couple times over the last 3 months. I'm almost done my second DIY basement.
A couple tips....to add to your collection.
1. On the topic of drywall that is too far out for a proper outlet / switch depth, I've also used small washers between the outlet and the blue box to help gain the desired spacing.
2. For keeping the basement quiet, I chose to wrap carpet padding loosely under the main sewer line and also used excess insulation over the sewer line where it made hard bends so as to insure my perfect movie night would not be distracted by the sound of flushing toilets from upstairs in the house.
3. Lally Column, I used your tip and framed off my column using a sandwich of 2x6 and 2x4 to create the square. I then added a low profile blue electrical box and ran a 20 amp feed. When the basement is finished I'll have a sectional couch and end table near by, so having the outlet there on the column is perfect for a reading lamp or a cell charger.
4. For constructing soffits, I had to encase duct work and a beam running parallel 24' across the basement. Being OCD, I wanted to insure the verticals were precise. I had sheets of 1/2" OSB ripped down at the lumber yard on their table saw to the dimension I needed - 12" width. Then I first attached 2x3" studs to the above floor joists. Second, I attached 2x3 studs to the bottom end of the OSB. Third, simply lift them up and screw or nail them to the ones already affixed to the joists. Forth, measure your cross pieces and screw or nail them in. This worked much easier than the ladder building technique and created perfectly straight edges.
Keep up the great work....and your door bell tip was clutch....I took that to heart and wired it in. Thanks!
Thanks Mark. Great tips! - Jason
Gotta laugh. Just running into this myself. The blue electrical boxes have gauges built into them, so you can leave the proper amount sticking out past the stud. HOWEVER, the drywall is almost always thicker than that reveal, and, the drywall is often not smack against the stud. So half of my outlets are perfect, and the other half are buried in the wall. Weird. Off to Home Depot!!
Booyah! Sometimes it's the simple fixes that are the hardest to figure out.
Do you know the brand name
Sorry, I don't know the brand. - Jason
I've added insofast insulation to my basement and sheetrock. I used extenders for the electrical outlet boxes & understand I need longer screws to install the outlets in the boxes. I have one that had to be offset, so it doesn't line up with the old box and the extenders aren't threaded. So, how do I install the outlet in the box?
Hmmm... I don't really have an answer for an offset box. You may need to move the box so that it will align. - Jason
Is there a way to do the opposite? ! My gang boxes stick out past my finished wall covering so I need a cover plate extender. So far the only brand I've found is Kyle Switch Plates - not all sizes and very pricey. Surprised there aren't more options.
Hey Kristin - Sounds like the boxes may have been installed too far out, but like you said there should be a market for everything. I'd go with the Kyle Switches. Best of luck, Jason
The Kyle switch covers will be $30 for two with the shipping. Any other suggestions?
Longer screws are required for the 3/4" but those are included at Home Depot. Other thickness extenders should not need longer screws but if you do get 6-32 x 1.25"
I am a mainly a residential electrician but do some commercial work as well. When a box is sticking out too far/ needs to be moved we will normally wedge a sawzall blade in between the stud and box and cut the nails to avoid big patch work and big back charges. Either use a pop in box, or use a right angle drill attachment and send some screws in the side of the box. Although this doesn’t meet code, if it’s a regular plastic box then it doesn’t ruin the “integrity of the box” in my opinion and most inspectors will let it slide. When a box is too deep in the wall we like to use wire nuts as spacers. Set it in the box and measure, cut the head of it off and pull the spiral wire inside the nut out. What is best for spacing is the raceways that fiber optic cable sits in. Now I know it isn’t easy For diy people to get ahold of it but I’m sure you can find something similar. We will get as many scraps of it as we can because it’s easy to measure, cut, send the screw through the device and then the spacer and slap it on! Cut more than you needed? That’s fine tighten it down with your drill the tubing will give way some. Also plugs are the only thing that need spacers because there is force being put on them when you plug in (especially these new child proof plugs). Switches do not experience force like plugs do, just make sure you keep some long 6x32 & 8x32 screws on you and you’re ready to rock and roll.
Our house has outdoor electrical boxes that are recessed with a cover. I hate them. But really only use them at Christmas time. Is there a plug in that would extend them closer to the opening? So plugging into them is not sunk in.
I've cut a few protruding boxes down flush with an oscillating tool so it's not the end of the world. Unless there are 100's of outlets, then you're kinda screwed.lol
My wall in the basement is 2x3 studs and my electrical boxes stick out about 1/2". is there a trim product to place around these for asthetics?